Category: Ender 3 part cooling fan not running

Ender 3 part cooling fan not running

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ender 3 part cooling fan not running

Did you miss your activation email? This topic This board Entire forum Google Bing. Print Search. ZayneTech Contributor Posts: 20 Country:. Hi Everybody! This is my first post, and I would like to ask why my Ender 3's control box fan isn't working after an upgrade to the TH3D Firmware. I have searched good old Google for answers but I didn't find anything. Any help would be appreciated.

Zorc Contributor Posts: 16 Country:. I've compiled my own from stock Marlin without any problems, so a custom TH3D firmware specific for this printer should be tested and fine. Are you sure it worked before the upgrade? And better yet, is your part cooling fan working?? If you just turned it on after the upgrade and started to check things and suddenly noticed the control box fan isn't working you should know this: The control box fan is connected on the same controller output as the part cooling fan on the Ender-3 at least it was on my versionwhen you just turn your printer on the fan is off Thanks for the reply.

I ended up rewiring it too.

How To Upgrade your Ender 3 Part Cooling Fan

Happy to share it here when it is sorted or roll your own based on this idea. Creality Electronics Enclosure v6. That looks great! I hope to hear from you soon. There was an error while thanking. SMF 2. EEVblog on Youtube.GitHub is home to over 50 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together.

Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community. Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. Need some help, made a good working setup for Ender 5 with BLtouch v3. All is working just fine, but the two fans are both running full speed all the time. Would like to be able to control at least the part cooling fan, but need some help or direction how to do this.

Added both my config and advanced config. Did you wire them the right way around? If I recall correctly it's swapped around compared to the original Melzi board. I saw indeed also an post on this, but I have both fans running at full speed. So even swapping the wires would make no difference in this case.

Ender 3 - Silent Fan Replacement Guide

The swapping of the fans does matter, as one is for the case fan, not the hotend, so it might just be the case that you're PWMing your casefan, as opposed to the part cooling fan. Not sure if that really matters though. I feel stupid. I did see many reports that that fans needed to be swapped.

I swapped the two fans used on the hot end. This didn't work. But you need to swap the fan for the motherboard fan and the hot end fan. The fan for motherboard is now always on. But the second fan on the hot end works now as intended.

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Sign up. New issue. Jump to bottom. Copy link Quote reply.Posted in 3D Printers. Hello Guys! I had different experience than him, and the fans did make a difference in my prints. I wondered if these guys with the larger fans are getting any real good use out of them, or if it was just a sham. I decided to purchase some fans, and try the upgrade.

It also requires you to use the Hero Me 2 base and fan mount, since you cannot install a on the stock hotend fan covers. The first thing you want to do if you are planning to perform this upgrade is to attempt and print out the Hero Me base and Fan Mounts.

Once you are happy with your Hero Me 2 mount, you can move on to ordering the fans you need for the mount that you printed out. I purchased a two pack to have a spare for the future, or if I decided to upgrade to dual fans. Below is a link to the two pack 24V fans. Once your fans have arrived and you are ready to make your installation, you will disable the printer by turning off power. Disassemble your hot-end fan shroud by removing the 4 bolts in the part cooling fan, and then you remove the two round head bolts holding the fan shroud to the gantry.

Once the cover is loose, you will need to remove the 4 bolts inside the hot end shroud to take the hot-end fan loose. Next you will have to install the Hero Me 2 base piece make sure your base lock or ABL mount is in placeit will slide down over your gantry mount plate, make sure you are careful of your wiring. Once the base is mounted, you can install your hot-end fan to the base with your 4 bolts. One hint I will share is to improve the strength of your strain relief for your wiring is to find a small piece of hose that is close to the size of your wires, cut a slit in it and put around the wires before you zip-tie them like below.

This will prevent your wires from spinning in the strain relief. Now you will have to decide if you are going to remove all the shielding from your cables and lengthen the fan cables, or take the easier route and cut the yellow and blue wires near the old fan. I installed the fan with some M3 bolts, and began my test prints. I will say that some profiles will take some tweaking to get back printing, I had to adjust how soon the fan went to maximum and I also reduced the maximum.

I will share my Cura cooling profile below for you to try if you are running into problems. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Great write up found it useful. But the stock fan was working just fine before so any advise will be welcome. Did you wire it up to the same place as your previous fan? And did you make sure you ordered the 24V fans? Otherwise, you will need custom firmware and then you can modify in the firmware configuration the setting listed below:.

If you have a 12v replacement fan you just to step the voltage down with resistors. Go to YouTube and search for 12v fan ender3 and follow the same steps. You are talking about stepping voltage down, but not controlling the speed. You need software PWM to control aftermarket fans. Bed temperature: Bed temperature plays an important role in getting perfect ABS prints. A higher bed temperature allows the part to cool down gradually, reducing the chances of any defects.

As a general rule of thumb, set your bed temperature at ? C to ? Any ideas?? There may be something you have to change in the software to enable these fans I heard this about certain versions. Posted in 3D Printers 8 Comments. Share on Facebook.Discussion in ' Troubleshooting ' started by crazasJun 23, Got a question or need help troubleshooting?

Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums! Solved Extruder fan not working Discussion in ' Troubleshooting ' started by crazasJun 23, Joined: May 18, Messages: 66 Likes Received: 2. After that the Printer stop working not sure if both events are related or not but they may be How can I fix that? I found many post about why this is happening my fan is in fact not working buy not how to fix it.

Joined: Feb 18, Messages: 5, Likes Received: 3, Details are important, just saying it stopped working isn't enough. Please provide more background. Everything work but the extruder fan, so, the extruder does not extrude the plastic, I need to put the fan back to work, sorry It lloks like I pressed the backspace button quite a few times without notice it and I deleted the info.

Thanx By the way, I am nit getting any power from this coupler after I unplugged the fan and connect another one. This is the not working fan This is the connector I unpluged and I am getting no power from it P. Do not look at the mess in the bed, it is just an optic illusion!!

Joined: Feb 21, Messages: 22, Likes Received: 7, Which fan are you talking about? The one in the pic is the one that is not working, I was inder the impression that this one was the extruder one. Shame on the newbie!! LOL But, if this is not the cause, what can be going on? I tried to clean the extruder raising the temp to and I was unable to push the ABS filament through the extruder. Any advise?

ender 3 part cooling fan not running

First, the extruder fan is the one mounted right in the side of the extruder the smaller fan and this must always be running when the extruder is hot always running is fine too. If this is not running then you will clog Mike Kelly Volunteer. Joined: Mar 11, Messages: 6, Likes Received: 2, The parts fan is controlled by software. You need to enable it for it to run. Send M in terminal to enable. Or use manual controls. Ok I checked it, in fact the extruder fan is up and ripunning and it is the parts fan that is off.

Thanx for the info about how to deal with clogs, it looks like I have some work to do tonight. Thanx again. Good luck. For ABS you normally want the parts fan off anyway so that is not going to be a problem.Creality's Ender 3 is a good budget 3D printer and rightfully popular, but I guess everyone owning it can confirm:.

This guide will show you how to use 12V parts in a 24V print, replace the fans and install a new duct for part cooling from both sides. Big thanks to Noctua for providing me with some of their high-end silent fans and 2print3D for sending me an new board after the Y-Driver died on mine unrelated to this project!

For this guide, I used the BantaMount Beta from bantam. Dual 40mm Fans is used from here on, if you choose something else or Blower fans, adjust accordingly. I used Noctua fans for this project, because they are well-known to be almost inaudible and a silent printer was the ultimate goal here for me. Their OmniJoin Adapter Kit that comes with the FLX versions of the fans saves us time by reducing the required soldering points and lets us use a regular fan plug, so we dont have to modify the Noctua fans them self.

The Ender 3 runs on 24V, but our fans are only rated for 12V. The Noctua fans have a 3-Pin connector, but our Ender board uses 2-Pin fan sockets. The first problem can be overcome by implementing Step Down modules, which convert our 24V source to and 12V output by adjusting them correctly. The second one is just solved by simply cutting and reusing the original connector. You might be able to source fitting 24V fans too, but they tend to be noisy. I also used 40x10 fans for the part cooling, but some headroom for more airflow by using the 40x20 instead might come in handy.

But so far, my 40x10 seem to be enough too. If you have them already, use them. If not, buy 40x20 instead. To really make a difference, you will need to have ether Nema Stepper Dampers or a Silent Board installed. Its really to no use if you make your fans silent, but the stepper motors sing their song all the time you are printing.

Stepper dampers are dirt cheap, but you might need to buy heatsink and print new mounts too. You cant put one on your extruder or Z-Stepper, so retraction and Z-Hop is still pretty loud. Its nearly a drop-in-replacement and comes with all the bells and whistles you could want. And it makes your steppers quiet, obviously.

This step requires you to open the power supply and measure voltage on 2 pins which have either 12V or 24V while its connected to mains voltage V or V! If you feel uncomfortable doing so, skip this step and leave the PSU as it is. It shouldn't be dangerous, as you measure on cables outside the PSU itself and dont come into contact with the main power, but be warned anyway! Unplug the PSU from power and flip the power switch a few times to discharge the remaining voltage.

After that, disconnect the yellow XT60 connector under the heatbed, remove the screws attaching the PSU to the Z-beams and move your printer out of the way for now.

Depending on the model of your PSU, remove the remaining screws attaching the cover with the fan to the rest of the PSU housing. Lift the cover just enough to unplug the fan before trying to remove it completely. Be careful not to touch anything else! Prepare your new printed cover by attaching the bigger fan and fan grill, leave the fan cable as it is for now. I kept the original airflow direction blowing out on my model, check yours and rotate the fan if needed.

Blowing fresh air in seems to be the logical way to cool the PSU, but I guess they have a reason why they let it blow out instead of in. And we dont want it to blow up either, right? Cut the original connector and wires near the fan, so you have as much cable es possible to work with. The 2 wires should be color-coded, red for positive and black for negative ground. If they arent, you can check the labeling near the plug on the power supply PCB.

Remove the insulation at the end of both wires, 0,5cm should be plenty. Measuring the voltage on the fan plug is a bit tricky, so be careful and patient.I need re-usable shopping bags because I have nothing else to dispose of my garbage. Find this brilliant and happy to see more people embracing similar journeys to make our planet a better place!.

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ender 3 part cooling fan not running

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Replacing the part cooling fan vent on an Ender 3- ring vent

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